From DJI to Custom Drones – Battery Considerations

My first drone was the DJI Avata 2. As starter drones go, it’s a solid bit of kit – powerful enough to give you proper FPV vibes but packed with enough assistive features that you’re less likely to wang it into a tree.

When you’re in the DJI goggles you get all the usual telemetry, including the battery percentage. And it’s crazy simple:

100%? Crack on.

20%? Think about bringing it home.

Job done! It’s the same system every phone, laptop, and smart toaster uses – super beginner-friendly.

Switching to custom drones?

Yeah… forget all of that.

Welcome to LiPo Land

My custom build is the iFlight Nazgul Evoque F5D running 6S LiPo batteries – six individual cells strapped together to power the drone. Unlike DJI’s smart packs, these have no battery management system babysitting you. That’s both the fun and the danger.

LiPo Pros:

You get consistent power throughout most of the pack.
Perfect for FPV – no sudden sag, no weird dips, just punch.

LiPo Cons:

Damage them enough and they can go full “I’m now a firework”.
If you charge them wrong? Also fireworks.
Even if you charge them right but the battery is slightly damaged? Yep… fireworks.

You need a dedicated charger with enough settings to make NASA look over. Want to undercharge? You can. Overcharge? You can literally do that too (please don’t). There’s no hand-holding here – you’re responsible for the charge rate, voltage, balance… everything.

Forget % – We’re Talking Volts Now

DJI’s 0–100% battery system does not exist in custom drone land.

A fully charged LiPo cell hits 4.2 volts. Most FPV pilots (me included) charge to 4.1 volts because it dramatically improves battery lifespan.

Letting them drain to 0 volts? Not really a thing and if it was, that’s how you kill a battery and make it unstable.

Voltage rules of thumb (6S LiPo):

4.2V per cell – absolute full
4.1V per cell – smart full (this is what I do)
3.5V per cell – start heading home
3.3V per cell – you really should have been home already
3.2V per cell – permanent cell damage territory

If you fly below that? Your battery will let you know… loudly… with swelling, heat, and potentially sparks.

Storage Voltage Matters Too

LiPos don’t like being left full or empty. They’re super temperamental unless everything is just right.

Storage voltage: 3.8V per cell.

So after flying (or if you don’t fly) you’ll need to:

Run a storage charge cycle
Sit and wait
And ideally not leave the batteries unattended while the charger does its thing

Again… these things are safe when used correctly – but unforgiving if you get sloppy.

Safety Gear – Non-Negotiable

I don’t mess about with battery safety, so here’s my setup:

A BatSafe box while charging – fire-resistant enclosure with vents that minimise damage if a pack pops.
A military ammo case for storage – thick steel, proper latch, zero nonsense.
A fire extinguisher next to the charging area – because I like my house not being on fire.

Is this overkill?

Absolutely not. Search LiPo house fire on YouTube – you’ll understand very quickly.

Final Thoughts

Switching from DJI to full custom FPV is dope – but the batteries are a whole different league. If you’re moving to LiPos, take the time to:

Learn proper charging
Respect voltage limits
Store them safely
Use proper enclosures

The alternative is a dead battery… or a dead house. Not hyperbole – reality!

Custom drones give you total control.

But that also means total responsibility.

Stay Safe!